Foundation·Guide·7 min
Understanding cosmetic claims
Cosmetic claims are constrained by category. Learning which words are defined, which are conventions, and which are simply unregulated is the core skill of reading a product page.
GuidesHow hair products work
Cleansing, conditioning, and styling do three different jobs.
By HELM Editorial · EditorialUpdated 8/9/2026
Key takeaways
- —Shampoo cleanses hair and scalp using surfactants.
- —Conditioner deposits material that smooths the fibre surface.
- —Styling products create or hold structure.
- —Hair is not living tissue, so care is about protection and surface condition.
The hair you can see is not living tissue. It cannot repair itself the way skin does. Everything a hair product does is about the surface of the fibre and the scalp it grows from.
Cleansing
Shampoo uses surfactants to remove oil, product residue, and debris from hair and scalp. Because the same surfactants also remove the fibre's own surface lipids, shampoo tends to leave hair rougher and harder to comb than before.
Conditioning
Conditioner exists because cleansing leaves that deficit. Conditioning ingredients are attracted to the hair surface and deposit a thin layer that reduces friction, improves combing, and reduces static. This is why the two products are designed as a pair.
Styling
Styling products use film formers, polymers, oils, or waxes to create hold, texture, or shine. They work by adding a layer with mechanical properties, not by changing the fibre itself.
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Choosing a daily shampoo
A daily shampoo is a cleansing strength decision. The right one removes what has built up since the last wash and no more.
Hair