Journal
Glossary.
The vocabulary of cosmetic formulation, in plain language.
- Active ingredient Beginner
- An ingredient included in a formula specifically to produce the product's intended effect, as distinct from ingredients that build or stabilise the base.
- Anhydrous Foundation
- Containing no added water. Balms, oils, and many sticks are anhydrous products.
- Antioxidant Foundation
- An ingredient used to slow oxidation, either to protect the formula itself or as part of its intended effect on the application surface.
- Chelating agent Intermediate
- An ingredient that binds trace metal ions in a formula, helping preservation, colour stability, and cleansing performance.
- Color additive Foundation
- A material used to impart colour. Colour additives are regulated separately from other cosmetic ingredients in many markets.
- Conditioning agent Beginner
- An ingredient that improves the feel, smoothness, or manageability of skin or hair after use.
- Emollient Beginner
- An ingredient that softens and smooths the surface, typically by filling gaps between surface cells and improving slip.
- Emulsifier Foundation
- An ingredient that allows oil and water to be combined into one stable product by reducing tension between the two phases.
- Emulsion Beginner
- A stable mixture of two materials that do not normally mix — most commonly oil dispersed in water, or water dispersed in oil.
- Humectant Beginner
- An ingredient used to attract or retain water within a cosmetic system or at the application surface.
- INCI Beginner
- International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients — the standardised naming system used on cosmetic ingredient lists so the same material has the same name worldwide.
- Occlusive Beginner
- An ingredient that forms a layer on the surface which slows the rate at which water evaporates from it.
- Peptide Intermediate
- A short chain of amino acids. Peptides are used in cosmetics for a range of intended surface effects and vary widely in structure and stability.
- Preservative Foundation
- An ingredient system included to prevent microbial growth in a product over its shelf life and during consumer use.
- Rheology Advanced
- The study of how a material flows and deforms — what makes a gel hold its shape or a lotion pour.
- Serum Beginner
- A lightweight, usually thin product designed to deliver a concentrated set of ingredients with minimal occlusive base.
- Skin barrier Beginner
- The outermost layers of skin and their lipid structure, which limit water loss and act as the skin's primary physical defence.
- Surfactant Foundation
- A surface-active ingredient with both water-loving and oil-loving parts, used for cleansing, foaming, solubilising, or emulsifying.
- Viscosity Foundation
- A measure of a liquid's resistance to flow. Higher viscosity means thicker and slower-moving.
- Water activity Advanced
- A measure of how much water in a formula is available to support microbial growth, which influences preservation strategy.